Wednesday
November 1, 1865
The Portland daily press (Portland, Me.) — Portland, Cumberland
“1865: When government women dressed like 'Parisian grisettes' and farmers fed charcoal to chickens”
Art Deco mural for November 1, 1865
Original newspaper scan from November 1, 1865
Original front page — The Portland daily press (Portland, Me.) — Click to enlarge
Full-size newspaper scan
What's on the Front Page

The front page of The Portland Daily Press is dominated not by breaking news, but by practical wisdom for daily life in post-Civil War America. The largest section features "Agricultural and Scientific Valuable Hints and Suggestions" compiled from the Genesee Farmer, offering everything from innovative grain-drying machines recently exhibited in New York to advice on fattening poultry with charcoal and growing radishes indoors during winter. The agricultural focus reflects a nation still deeply rooted in farming, even as new technologies emerge. Sharing equal prominence is a "racy letter" from Jane G. Swisshelm about women working in government departments - a cutting critique of female federal employees who "persevere in carrying the drawing room to the office." Swisshelm lambasts women workers for dressing like "Parisian grisettes" with their "jaunty hats," tight shoes that make them "thump, thump, thump" up department staircases, and hair "stuffed with 'rats' and 'mice' and bundles of buffalo hide." The remainder of the page showcases the commerce of daily life - furniture dealers, winter clothing sales, and prominently, Anderson's New York Skirt and Corset Store advertising the season's hoop skirt styles.

Why It Matters

This November 1865 edition captures America at a pivotal transition moment - just six months after the Civil War's end and Lincoln's assassination. The agricultural focus reflects a nation still overwhelmingly rural, yet the innovative grain-processing machines hint at the industrial revolution transforming American farming. Meanwhile, Swisshelm's commentary on women in government work reveals the war's profound social changes - women had entered federal employment in unprecedented numbers during the conflict, challenging traditional gender roles. The tension between old and new America permeates every column: practical farming advice sits alongside complaints about modern women's fashion, while advertisements for both traditional goods and newfangled inventions fill the margins. This is America rebuilding and redefining itself, grappling with questions of work, gender, technology, and social propriety that the war had thrust into sharp relief.

Hidden Gems
  • A single silk fiber weighs so little that there are 283 miles of silk thread in just one pound
  • Farmers are advised to feed pulverized charcoal to poultry daily mixed with their meal, claiming it fattens fowls 'much quicker' and makes their meat 'much better'
  • To grow winter radishes, readers should soak seeds for 24 hours, hang them in a bag in the sun until they germinate, then plant in a half-barrel with another barrel placed on top
  • Jane G. Swisshelm claims that 'nineteen-twentieths of woman's sickness is the direct result of improper dress' - primarily tight corsets and shoes
  • The newspaper itself costs $8 per year in advance (about $150 in today's money), while a simple classified ad runs $1.50 for the first week
Fun Facts
  • Jane G. Swisshelm, the letter writer criticizing working women's fashion, was actually a pioneering feminist who had been advocating for women's rights when it was deeply unpopular - making her critique of government women all the more pointed
  • The 'rats' and 'mice' Swisshelm mentions weren't actual rodents but hair padding made from various materials (including buffalo hide) that women used to create elaborate Victorian hairstyles
  • Those grain-separating machines mentioned were part of the agricultural revolution that would transform American farming - by 1900, similar mechanical innovations would reduce farm labor needs by 40%
  • The experimental cast iron rifled guns with 12-inch bores that were deemed 'not desirable' represent the massive artillery innovations of the Civil War - this same period saw the development of guns that could fire shells over 5 miles
  • Hoop skirts were so popular and profitable that Anderson's entire front-page ad consists almost entirely of the words 'HOOP SKIRTS' repeated in various fonts - these steel-framed contraptions could extend a woman's dress up to 6 feet wide
Contentious Civil War Reconstruction Agriculture Womens Rights Science Technology Economy Trade
October 30, 1865 November 2, 1865

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