Friday
April 1, 1864
The Portland daily press (Portland, Me.) — Maine, Portland
“Women Sewing Shirts Worth $9.50 for 8 Cents—April 1864 Portland Press Exposes War-Era Wage Slavery”
Art Deco mural for April 1, 1864
Original newspaper scan from April 1, 1864
Original front page — The Portland daily press (Portland, Me.) — Click to enlarge
Full-size newspaper scan
What's on the Front Page

The Portland Daily Press leads with coverage of a massive labor organizing meeting held at Cooper Institute in New York City on Monday evening, where working women aired grievances about wages so abysmal they seem almost unbelievable. The paper presents detailed case studies of what women actually earned: a seamstress making fine white cotton shirts with 11,500 machine stitches, beautiful button holes, and intricate felled seams—shirts that retail for $3.50—receives just 16 cents per garment for over twelve hours of labor. Even more shocking: a woman sewing fancy flannel shirts (sold in stores for $9.50) earns only 8 cents per shirt. The newspaper breaks down exact material costs and employer profits item by item, revealing that a woman making ladies' collars and cuffs with 21,700 fine stitches earns 21 cents per dozen sets—about three dozen per day if working "early and late." The meeting, presided over by Hon. Charles T. Daly with prominent citizens offering support, aimed to draw attention to 60,000 working women in New York whose "necessities compel them to labor for their support" while facing "high prices of provisions, increased rents, and unheard of advance in everything."

Why It Matters

This April 1864 article captures a pivotal moment in American labor history—the Civil War had disrupted traditional economies and pushed women into manufacturing work out of necessity, yet factory owners exploited their desperation mercilessly. The meeting represents an early, organized attempt at wage justice by women workers, happening while the nation remained locked in devastating war. What's remarkable is that the Portland press is giving serious coverage to a working-women's movement, suggesting this wasn't a fringe issue but a matter of genuine public concern. The detailed economic accounting—showing precisely how manufacturers reaped enormous profits while workers starved on subsistence wages—was radical journalism for its time, exposing the human cost of industrialization during America's bloodiest chapter.

Hidden Gems
  • One woman mentioned in the article was the wife of a sea-captain who 'was never obliged to do anything to her own or her childrens support until the last few months'—she enlisted in the army expecting naval transfer for better pay but was disappointed, forcing his wife to sew fancy Zouave shirts for 12 cents each while raising four children alone. This single detail encapsulates the cascading economic desperation caused by the war.
  • A woman earning 35 cents per day making army officer blouses (requiring 10 hours of work per garment with 7,000 stitches) told organizers she 'could not earn more than two dollars a week, on account of ill health' but thought 'a healthy woman might earn a dollar a week more'—meaning peak survival wages were roughly $3/week, or about $65 in today's money for full-time work.
  • The paper notes that ladies' collars and cuffs selling for 75 cents retail in department stores cost manufacturers just $1.98 per dozen sets to produce—but women were paid only 21 cents per dozen to do all the stitching, meaning the employer's markup was roughly 300%.
  • An advertisement on the same page announces the First National Bank of Portland has just been chartered under new federal banking law (dated January 29, 1864)—the National Banking Act was only months old, showing how the war was simultaneously creating new financial institutions while workers were earning subsistence wages.
  • Buried in classifieds: J.M. Todd's enlistment office at the corner of Middle & Exchange Streets actively recruited men 'to strike our Nation's foe,' offering incentives for those willing to join regiments—a stark contrast to the desperation of women workers on the same page.
Fun Facts
  • The article mentions that women were making shirts with 11,500 sewing machine stitches—the sewing machine itself was still relatively new technology (invented in the 1840s-50s), so this represents the cutting edge of industrial labor. Yet automation made things worse for workers: employers could demand speed that hand-sewing never allowed, and women competed with machines rather than benefiting from them.
  • One woman earned only 8 cents for a shirt retailing at $9.50—that's a 10,000% markup from production cost to retail price. For context, that markup would be illegal under modern consumer protection law; the Pure Food and Drug Act (1906) and later consumer protection regulations were partly born from exactly this kind of exploitation exposed in newspapers like the Press.
  • The meeting at Cooper Institute mentioned in the article—that same venue would become a hotbed of radical organizing and reform movements for the next century, hosting everyone from Mark Twain to Eleanor Roosevelt to civil rights activists. This 1864 women's labor meeting was part of that legacy.
  • Charles T. Daly, who chaired the meeting, was a New York judge and prominent abolitionist. The irony (and connection) is explicit in the article itself—it quotes a song comparing enslaved people to working women: 'When you free the slave as a chattel, the joy of freedom is loud, but the prayer that comes from woman when she asketh bread for toil is met with a clamor inhuman.' This framing—comparing industrial exploitation to slavery—was central to 1860s labor rhetoric.
  • The Portland Daily Press cost 3 cents per copy in 1864, yet the newspaper's own pages reveal that women were earning 8-35 cents *per day* of labor. That means a working woman would need to spend roughly 1/10th of a day's wages just to read the news covering her own economic struggle.
Tragic Civil War Economy Labor Labor Strike Womens Rights Civil War
March 31, 1864 April 2, 1864

Also on April 1

1836
April 1, 1836: When Washington Discovered Life Insurance (and Stallion Stud...
Daily national intelligencer (Washington City [D.C.])
1846
A Treasure Hunt Gone Right: How a Baltimore Paper Sold Romance Over Revolution...
American Republican and Baltimore daily clipper (Baltimore, Md.)
1856
Inside the Port That Made America Rich—48 Hours Before Everything Changed
New Orleans daily crescent ([New Orleans, La.])
1861
Nine Days Before Fort Sumter: The South Arms Itself, and Sam Houston Says No
The daily exchange (Baltimore, Md.)
1862
One Year Into the Civil War: How Brooklyn Held Elections While America Bled
New-York daily tribune (New-York [N.Y.])
1863
When the South Ran Out of Money: How a Small Arkansas Newspaper Captured the...
Washington telegraph (Washington, Ark.)
1865
April 1, 1865: Grant launches the final offensive that will end the Civil War...
Chicago tribune (Chicago, Ill.)
1866
Just 5 Days After Lincoln's Death: Inside a Nation Convulsing Over Justice,...
Chicago tribune (Chicago, Ill.)
1876
Boston Dreams Meet Arizona Reality: 150 New Englanders Head West to Build a...
Arizona citizen (Tucson, Pima County, A.T. [i.e. Ariz.])
1886
Secret Senate Showdown Over Lincoln Monument & Why America's Civil Service Was...
The Washington critic (Washington, D.C.)
1896
War, Gold, and Fire: The Week the Republic Chose Its Champion (And Lost Half a...
The Dalles weekly chronicle (The Dalles, Or.)
1906
Coal miners walk out with their tools as operators plot to import strikebreakers
The sun (New York [N.Y.])
1926
1926: Judge Rules Woman Can Romance Dead Husband's Ghost + Maine Sheriff...
Daily Kennebec journal (Augusta, Me.)
1927
Henry Ford Flat on His Back: When Even America's Richest Man Can't Escape the...
New Britain herald (New Britain, Conn.)
View all 14 years →

Wake Up to History

Every morning: one front page from exactly 100 years ago, with context, hidden gems, and an original Art Deco mural. Free.

Subscribe Free